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Quemadito translates to something like “burnt drink” in Spanish, but there is no actual burning involved in making it.

The minute the fiery wine passes my throat, the warmth spreads gently and slowly, a pleasurable journey to other parts of my body. I knew that once I got home I’d be in the mood for nothing more than a mug of mulled wine. ” 95-year-old Patricia Amésquita asks me as I stumble into her patio before sunrise. October, the month of the village’s local saint, Santa Ursula, starts off early.

As I catch the last of the fireworks, Patricia offers me a shot of , a shot of pisco, chocolate, garlic, and various herbs, poured from a huge metal kettle wrapped in a t-shirt—a kind of makeshift thermos.

Walking past it, it looked like it hadn’t been fired up in a while. The meat inside was cooked to the greyish color favored by hospital kitchen cooks and the current President of the United States.

My first clue that things had gone, well, sideways: the big grill outside of the R Country Market was unlit.

The final ingredient is pisco, which she boils just for a minute or two so that the alcohol doesn’t evaporate. I stayed in Viraco for almost a week, and started every day with a few shots of this bracing chocolate drink.

Before pouring into a kettle to serve, Patricia strains out all the herbs, leaving a smooth, chocolatey liquid. As a child, Patricia used to make the trek to the family farm multiple times a week, walking hours through the mountains and valleys to harvest whatever vegetable was in season at the time.

There’s nothing quite like starting a hike at 6 a.m. A lot of people say the mountain air and daily exercise is Patricia’s secret to living to 95.

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