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My latest article -- Tavel: the Popes' Ros -- is now out in the June issue of The World of Fine Wine.

Premices is a cuvee of Jasnieres that Nicolas launched in 2008.

Intended to be his fruity, easy and early drinking Jasnieres, it comes from vines in the process of being converted to biodynamics.

Ive tasted the 2006 on several occasions, most recently in early 2010.

I cant think about this wine without going off the deep end.

Eric Nicolas is an artist-vigneron in the most profound sense. Nicolas, a native of Dieppe, started his adult life working for Total France as an electrical engineer before succumbing to the desire to make wine.

Land in the Coteaux du Loir was within his means and so he and his wife Christine bought a run-down farm in the area in 1995.

Today they have 13 hectares of vines, on over fifty different parcels, with different expositions and soils types presenting multiple variations on the theme of flinty clay on limestone.