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I have an unrestored May 1917 roadster but, unfortunately, the coil box was replaced by the original owner with a later one with the pressed steel housing.

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Second: The head is a low head, but there are two casting numbers on it: a 14 at the water outlet and another number at the other end. What I am thinking is that this is a 1917 block with the old serial number stamped on it at a later date. Steven, can't argue with Dan's take on the block casting date. hogshead, as those are soooo much lighter than an iron one.

The engine is turns freely and is good and greasy inside. The straight fan arm and steel hub fan are consistent with this date. If you look at the pan where the radius rod mates to the cup underneath, are there strengthening ribs pressed outwards either side of the casting, or is the pan surface relatively flat? Looks like great start for a non-starter 1917 engine. Owner discarded the iron hogshead from that '17 and put on his old aluminum one to make for less effort on re-lining the bands!

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Allen Bennett wrote: If you look at the pan where the radius rod mates to the cup underneath, are there strengthening ribs pressed outwards either side of the casting, or is the pan surface relatively flat? I'm basing my prior post on cars with known histories.

Allen, the radius rod ball holder that mounts to the pan has no ribs pressed outwards like an spread H pattern, that mounts to the pan. I have read that the steel cover was made to go over the hard rubber switch. My dad's July 1917 Ford (last month of the 1917 model year) has the hard rubber switch housing.

I need some help confirming my dating this Model T engine and its' parts.

I believe most of it is 1914 and or real close to that date. Last: It looks like the block has a casting date of 1917, is that correct?

Replacement engines came from the factory with serial numbers. They were to be stamped with the numbers of the blocks they replaced.